Breakouts bring with them a real kick in the confidence that no cosmetic can cure. But the reasons for blemishes may lie far deeper beneath the epidermis than you think, writes Emma Bangay.
Been there done that with breakouts? Lucky you. Some of us are plagued by acne-like symptoms well into adulthood.
Carla Oates, author of Feeding Your Skin and founder of The Beauty Chef – explains that a breakout – an eruption of one or more pimples on an area of skin that was previously clear – can be very different from the acne we may have encountered in adolescence.
“Acne is sometimes described as any pimple or breakout,” she notes. “But generally, I tend to think of acne as a more severe form of pimples that are chronic.”
Most people will experience a ‘breakout’ of some description if they have ever had a pimple, she notes, with lots of her clients reporting cyclic breakouts with their periods, or during periodical stressful times such as deadlines and exams.
“In people who don’t normally have pimples or acne, breakouts are usually due to stress or unusual unhealthy dietary patterns,” she explains. “In people who are genetically prone to having pimples, breakouts are usually hormonal, stress related, dietary related or toxicity related.”
The Corrections:
One of the biggest myths is that acne is not food related, says Carla. “While for some people food isn’t the main cause behind their acne, it will certainly exacerbate people’s skin problems,” she assures.
“Acne is referred to as ‘skin diabetes’ and is usually driven by androgens and over-active sebaceous glands,” she says. “Both of these mechanisms are worsened by eating sugary foods which raises blood sugar levels, insulin levels and then testosterone levels.”
Another myth that Carla calls time on is that scrubbing the skin with harsh foaming cleaners will clean it more efficiently and reduce oil. “This will dry out the skin, and potentially damage the epidermis, thus resulting in an over production of oil which leads to more pimples,” she says.
The Causes:
Stress: “Stress raises cortisol, which in turn raises insulin, which in turn raises testosterone and makes the skin cells more sensitive to the male qualities of testosterone.”
Diet: “This is very genetically determined, but I have definitely seen people with good skin, eventually end up with breakouts after a long time with a poor diet.”
The No No’s:
Sugar: “In all forms will raise insulin levels,” she warns.
Dairy and Dairy Fats: Studies have shown a link between dairy and acne and it’s believed to be because dairy raises insulin levels and IGF-1 levels, explains Carla. “Dairy fats can be even worse because they clog the lymphatic’s and congest the liver,” she explains, advising the avoidance of cream and ice cream. “Butter is an exception when eaten in small amounts,” she adds.
Damaged Fats: Deep fried food, reheated oils and the like are very inflammatory and reduce levels of anti-inflammatory omega 3s, Carla explains.
Incorrect Cosmetics (and their use): Not cleansing properly, wearing occlusive formulations that block the pores and over cleansing can send the oil glands into turbo drive.
The Do’s:
High levels of antioxidants: Eat these with abandon to improve liver function, anti-inflammatory actions and ‘mop up’ free radicals, she advises.
The right essential fatty acids: Stick with Omega 3 for surefire skin success.
Fermented foods: These improve digestion and the absorption of minerals and nutrients, reducing candida and gut dysbiosis, which have been linked to acne.
Cleanse properly: “Cleanse with oil, but don’t leave lots of oil on your skin.” Good oil to cleanse with is jojoba as it helps balance sebum production. “Add a little coconut oil too as it is anti-bacterial.”
Topical Tips:
Fresh food masks with clay are a great breakout anecdote. “Green clay with tomato juice or lemon juice and a touch of turmeric on spots is great!” says Carla.
Zinc oxide can bring down pimples quickly. “But it is white powder, so it needs to be applied at night,” she notes.
Cleanse your skin with yoghurt and use tea tree essential oil (just one drop on a spot), garlic (only put on the spot, not large areas of skin as it can burn a little) to spot treat, Carla suggests.
The Lesson:
“Healthy skin glows from the inside out – and eating a balanced diet rich in greens, anti-oxidants and good fats as well as drinking filtered water and sleeping well are essential for this to happen,” Carla encourages.
“It’s only natural that breakouts can get us down and we don’t want to show our faces in public but feeling down about our skin can raise our stress levels as well so can become a vicious cycle,” she adds. “Taking steps to improve your diet and lifestyle will make you feel better without any special skincare treatments.”