Sun protection is the first step towards beautiful, glowing skin. It’s a beauty mantra that we’ve all rehearsed, but how do we actually find the very best safeguard for our skin? As much as we want to take advantage of all the advancements science has to offer, it can be difficult to keep the facts straight.
Australian skincare authority Dr. Geoffrey Heber has made nurturing and protecting our skin a lifelong mission. It was this mission that drove him to create Ultraceuticals and the revolutionary SunActive SPF50+ sun protection products. We asked Dr. Heber to bust the sunscreen myths, explain the benefits of ‘all-spectrum protection’, SPF50+, and share his tips on how to find the the ultimate protection for our skin.
RESCU: SPF 50+ has been available internationally for sometime, why did it take so long for it to launch in Australia?
Dr. Geoffrey Heber: Since at least the 1970’s sunscreens are a prime way of protecting against UV-related skin cancers. Therefore, the regulators have taken a precautious attitude to introducing new regulations, ensuring that there are marked and clear consumer benefits and no mixed or misleading messages in the marketplace.
RESCU: What does ‘all-spectrum protection’ mean?
Dr. Geoffrey Heber: There is no accepted definition for “all-spectrum protection”. However, some sunscreens may contain ingredients that provide activity across the complete UVB and UVA spectrums. Sunscreen agents absorb UV light within the range 290-400 nm. Broad spectrum sunscreens may not necessarily absorb long UVA1 rays towards 400nm that can penetrate deeply into the skin.
RESCU: You’ve combined an antioxidant complex with a skin-conditioning complex in what is essentially a sun-care product. Can you tell us more about the benefits of these for the skin?
Dr. Geoffrey Heber: The antioxidant complex has a two-fold role. Firstly, it is an adjunct to the sunscreen system ensuring the photostability of sunscreen agents, (this is necessary as many sunscreen ingredients become unstable with exposure to sunlight therefore will over time be ineffective). Also, much damage due to UV radiation is due to the formation of free radical oxidants.
The skin conditioning complex is added because this is intended to be a sports-active sunscreen. People who use these products are likely to be exposing themselves to a harsh (hot/dry) environment (especially in Australia). The skin conditioning agents are designed to help the skin maintain optimal moisture levels in these conditions. For chronically sun exposed skin (face, neck and hands) we recommend the Sun Active Cream as this also contains additional barrier repair and antioxidant agents.
RESCU: Many people can develop allergic reactions to chemical sunscreen. How is your formulation different?
Dr. Geoffrey Heber: Many reactions to skincare products including sunscreens are due to preservatives and fragrances. We do not use any fragrance in the products and the preservatives used are benign in regard to reactions. To reduce the likeliness of potential reactions to the sunscreen active agents we have used actives ingredients that on the whole do not penetrate past the stratum corneum (outer layer of the skin). Also, no PABAs or benzophenones have been used. Another point of difference is that we have managed to drastically reduce the overall sunscreen active loading to a mere 15%. This is extremely low for a SPF50+ product demonstrating 4 hours water resistance. Finally, the sunscreen film that develops on the skin following application (in which these actives are maintained) is designed to hold the actives in the film itself rather than allow penetration into the deeper layers of the skin.
RESCU: What should we look out for when choosing a sunscreen for the harsh Australian climate?
Dr. Geoffrey Heber: The minimum expectation should be:
- Highest possible SPF (and therefore also Broad Spectrum) with an AustL number. The AustL number is located on the front of the box and shows that the product has been approved by the TGA.
- An antioxidant system to help protect against photo-generated radicals.
- The presence of Vitamin E (alpha-Tocopherol) and not Vitamin E ester (alpha-Tocopheryl acetate) as the latter does not directly function as an antioxidant but must be converted to Vitamin E, a process reported to be inefficient.
In addition, one may also look out for:
- A barrier repair complex, that is moisturising ingredients to help maintain the integrity of the skin’s moisturising lipid barrier.
- Four hour water resistance.
RESCU: As a cosmeceutical brand, what did you consider when creating your first sun-protection range?
Dr. Geoffrey Heber: We wanted this outdoor sunscreen to be one of the best sunscreens available on the market. Ideal for the active lifestyle, it was important for us to have the following requirements.
1. The highest possible SPF and Broad Spectrum claims with low active sunscreen loading.
2. The presence of complete-spectrum sunscreen actives.
3. Four hour water resistance.
4. An added antioxidant defence system to help protect against photo-generated radicals.
7. A skin conditioning/moisturising complex.
8. A barrier repair complex for added moisturisation
9. A sheer, touch-dry, matt finish and aesthetically appealing product.
RESCU: When a product is four hours water resistant, when does it need to be reapplied?
Dr. Geoffrey Heber: Water resistance is measured by determining the SPF measurement after the period of water immersion claimed on the product. The maximum water resistant claim period of 4 hours is only allowed for products which have SPFs of 30 or more after immersion in water. Water resistant products still need to be reapplied regularly due to being worn or rubbed off, e.g. during towelling dry. It is therefore recommended that reapplication of any sunscreen is necessary every two hours when outdoors. In the case of water resistant products also reapply immediately after towelling dry.
RESCU: When in our beauty routine would the SunActive SPF 50+ Face Cream best be applied? Before or after serums, moisturiser, makeup?
Dr. Geoffrey Heber: We recommend that SunActive SPF 50+ be used as the final step in the morning regimen. Following cleansing, apply the recommended treatment products, followed by a generous layer of SunActive SPF 50+. It is best applied to clean, dry skin, evenly to the face and body 15-20 minutes before sun exposure and again after swimming or towelling. If makeup is to be applied it would be following the application of SunActive SPF 50+.
Ultraceuticals SunActive SPF 50+ Face Cream 60ml RRP $45
Ultraceuticals SunActive SPF 50+ Body Lotion 250ml RRP $79
Available from leading skin clinics, David Jones Stores, and https://www.ultraceuticals.com