Blair Patterson Director, Global Makeup Artistry for Estée Lauder is a pioneer of simplifying beauty and during his recent visit to Sydney, I was lucky enough to be able to bust some beauty myths and get down to the business of beautiful.
With over 15 years of experience in the industry, Blair says, “Makeup should not be a complicated process for anybody. The best makeup artists are those who excel in creating a complicated look with just a few quick, simple steps and making it look effortless.”
If effortless is taking every inch of your effort right now, let Blair bestow upon you his invaluable makeup advice, to make sure you never make the wrong moves again.
RESCU: What do you think is something women are doing wrong makeup wise?
Blair Patterson: The first thing that I think is overlooked by a lot of women is foundation. No matter where you live, throughout the year you change colour. At least one shade if not more. So being able to update your foundation and to be the perfect match for the season is important. Also, the texture of it. The texture that you want for foundation in the summer is different than what you want for the texture of your foundation in the winter. I always tell women to- go back to the counter in the highest summer month and get their foundation matched. Because that’s probably going to be when you’re the darkest. And in the coldest month get matched again.
RESCU: Does that hold true also for concealer and primer and those kind of products too?
Blair Patterson: If you’re that dramatic. If you tend to go out in the summer that much, then yes do that. If you’re just going to change a shade or two then youre probably okay with your concelaer. The fun thing about that is that in the winter time, the foundation you use in summer, can be used to contour the face. So the darker colour, use that under the cheekbones, by the temples and side of the nose to give you a nice lift on your face. In the summer, you can also use the lighter, winter foundation to highlight the skin. So you can be using these throughout the year to make sure you’re always the right colour. You can also mix the two to transition throughout seasons.
RESCU: Say you’re in your mid forties and you want that fresh, dewy look, but still have decent coverage…what kind of pay off and techniques should you be looking for?
Blair Patterson: I don’t think you need to run out and buy different bottles of foundation. If you like double wear foundation cause it stays on, it lasts through heat and humidity and it gives good coverage, you can sheer that out with advance night repair. It goes through from a thicker consistency to a very sheer formulation. In the wintertime, if you need more hydration, again you can use skincare just over the cheekbones and over the foundation to get a glow and lock in the moisture.
Do you have any tips on what’s flattering, what to avoid at certain age groups or if you have a certain type of skin?
Blair Patterson: I like to see skin. If your skin isn’t the best, even then you shouldn’t cover it up. If you’re skin is consistently bad, not with ageing but with acne, redness or irritation, that’s something to address with what you do at night when you take it off. When you take care of your skin, you don’t need a lot of foundation. Girls have mistaken foundations purpose and I don’t know how that happened. It’s been misconstrued as a one stop show for a perfect face. It’s suppose to even out colour. Its not really about coverage, we’ve just added that in with technology. But it’s not a mask. Put it on the centre of the face and blend it out as you get to the hair and jaw line.
RESCU: Are you a fan of powder?
Blair Patterson: If you need it, absolutely. A loose powder to set foundation is a great way to start the day but I think women wear too much of all of it. Concealer, foundation and powder.
RESCU: You are the dream make up artist!
Blair Patterson: Don’t get me wrong, I love to go crazy with colour and I love to create fantasies and stories but I think that we’re creating those stories in flesh. You need to see the face. When I see a woman on the street or in the office and all I can see is the foundation, the make up’s not doing its job. The make up should be supporting what it’ being put on, not covering it.
RESCU: How do you look like you don’t have anything on?
Blair Patterson: Start with a light foundation. Whatever you’re doing now, do half. Then step back, stop, correct and powder down in areas where you counter. So, the cheekbone down and maybe the forehead. Step back, and look. If you need more, add a little bit more. I watch women put on a huge amount on the back of their hand and put it on their face.
RESCU: Do you like to use brushes?
Blair Patterson: Yes. If the foundation needs to go on perfect or for that airbrush look. Foundation brushes are great but if you want more of a natural complexion that’s going to last a little bit longer then you should use sponges. It will help pack in that foundation and it will give you a nice base. If you just want that weekend ‘I’m going to brunch I don’t really care’ kind of look then just use your fingers. Little finger prints on the skin make it look kind of real and warms it up, kind of like a moisturiser. You have to build up the skin.
RESCU: So if you’re going to a counter, the first thing you should ask twice a year is to be matched?
Blair Patterson: At the appropriate time. Don’t go in January to be matched for July. Also take in what you have and show them what you have. It’s a great way to have a consultation and start a conversation.
Women bring tear sheets and extras – the more visuals you give them the better they’re going to do. We hire a range of beauty advisors. I always tell people to look at them – who’s make up to you respond to?
I know a lot of women feel comfortable getting their make up done by a woman that is their age. You can personalise who you are serviced by
RESCU: So, can you approach an Estée Lauder counter and say, ‘I’m thinking of buying some make up, can you show me what’s good on me? Or do we have to sneakily try the testers while the girl at the counter isn’t looking?
Blair Patterson: I think there’s a pressure of buying, and women sneak away not because they don’t want to buy something or because they’re embarrassed to say ‘ I just need to freshen my make up’, I think it’s because they don’t want to waste someone’s time, or be insulting, they don’t really know what they’re looking for, they don’t know they want to trust somebody or they don’t have the time to do it. So they see something and go ‘Oh I know that one, this will be really quick’. I think we’re getting better with letting costumers play and letting them experience the lines, the formulations and are more interactive with them without being so reliant on the beauty advisor. We’re spending quite a bit of time training them, especially with 3 Minute Beauty…
Developed by the Estée Lauder Global Makeup Artist Team, 3 Minutes Beauty techniques are designed to educate women on creating makeup effects that can instantly transform their daily makeup routine. The services include:
Instant Glow/Instant Matte – Create a flawless face – anytime, anywhere – with our quick fix technique.
Highlight and Contour – Sculpt with our easy lighting tricks to make features pop.
XO Spots – Hide every flaw with a kiss and a hug. Our spot-on camouflage technique.
Fatigue Fighter – “C” brighter eyes with our #1 requested technique.
Modern Wing – It’s pretty edgy but every eye can wing it with our bold eye technique.
Lip Shape-Up – Transform lips with our quick sculpting tricks that work for every shape.
With any 3 Minute Beauty service, you’ll also receive a free 10-day supply of your perfect foundation match. Available at all Estée Lauder counters at MYER and David Jones nationwide. Stockist enquiries 1800 061 326.